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This article was published in the latest issue of the Beauty NZ Magazine - Written by Rachel

Wound healing - how to best look after your skin post needling.

Dermal needling has become an extremely popular and beneficial treatment in the beauty therapy industry, but do you really understand how to look after the skin post needling?

As we know when we perform a Dermal Needling treatment we are trying to achieve a few things 1) stimulation of epidermal growth factors which provide us with a much stronger, healthier and denser epidermis. 2) stimulation of collagen production, giving the skin a firmer tighter appearance. But what happens to the skin after the treatment and what does the skin need to function correctly and thrive for the next few days?

Hyaluronic Acid is an essential ingredient to be used directly after Dermal Needling, it has an affinity to growth factors TGF B and PDGF, meaning an increase in Hyaluronic Acid directly on the skin would enhance the effect of the growth factors. Post Needling one of biggest aims is to stop the inflammatory process, this is to limit the amount of Oxidative stress the skin goes through. Two ingredients that help with this are Boswellia and Green Tea. Boswelia inhibits 5-lipoxygenase which is an enzyme in the inflammatory stage. Green Tea extract has anti-inflammatory properties along with it being useful as an antimicrobial ingredient and fantastic anti-oxidant.

Our next port of call is to reduce the degradation of collagen and support new collagen fibres, once again Boswellia is a fantastic ingredient to support these processes.

Preservation of the skin barrier function and preservation of the epidermis should be at the forefront of anything you do and Dermal Needling is no exception. With the use of Kiwi Seed Oil the skin barrier is protected and cell to cell communication is improved. Being the highest plant form of Omega 3 with 61% ALA, Kiwi Seed Oil is the number one choice for supporting skin barrier function.

These ingredients should all be applied post Needling but what about when the client goes home? Days 1-5 are crucial. Day 1-3 The Inflammatory Stage and day 3-5 the Lag and Proliferative stage. Normal skin care should cease during these stages, the application of the above ingredients should continue throughout the 5 day process, before the reintroduction of other skin care products containing high level vitamins, peptides or other actives.

It is important to advise your client about proper post Needling care.

Prologic offers a professional Dermal Needling Treatment, Hyaluronic Acid is used directly post Needling along with the Post Needling Treatment Cream. The post Needling treatment Cream is now available in a take home retail size for clients to use for 5 days post Needling. 

     

Vitamin A - The essential ingredient for healthy cells

 

   

Nanoparticles stabilize vitamin A in particularly high dosage and optimally transport the active agents into the skin. Vitamin A supports the collagen formation and promotes the regeneration of the skin. Vitamin A is also recommended for the treatment of prematurely aged skin due to UV influence.

See us for your Custom Blended Dermaviduals Moisturiser containing Vitamin A, get your skin on it's way to reproducing healthy cells.

     

Boswelia - Such an amazing ingredient.

   

Nanoparticles stabilize boswellia sacra extract (frankincense extract) in high dosage, transport the active agent into the skin and enable skin application in spite of the resinous property of boswellia. Frankincense extract inhibits the expression of metalloproteinases, which induce the degradation of collagen. Metalloproteinases are activated when the skin is strongly stressed by UV radiation. Furthermore boswellia inhibits the 5-lipoxygenase, a key enzyme of inflammation processes. Frankincense encapsulated in nanoparticles is not only used for antiaging skin care, but also for accompanying care of inflamed skin disorders and especially actinic keratoses. Phytosteroles ("unsaponifiables") from avocado oil extract support the care of barrier disordered skin.

See us for your Custom Blended Dermaviduals Moisturiser containing Boswelia

Dermaviduals Arrives at Skin Therapy

What is Dermaviduals?

Dermaviduals is a Advanced Skin Care range, developed on Corneotherapy. Corneotherapy is the preservation and strengthening of the Epidermis. Formulated with Nanoparticles and Liposomes, Dermaviduals offers a delivery system like no other skin care range. Meaning the ingredients are penetrating right to cell level. The products are based on DMS (Derma Membrane Structure) mimicking cell systems and functions. We are very excited to be able to offer our clients the latest cutting edge products. To find out more about Dermaviduals visit http://www.dermaviduals.com.au/ or see us for more details.

Rachel

Summer's Nearly Over

Well summer is nearly over but that doesn't mean you need to stop protecting yourself, the UV rays are damaging all year round. Protect yourself with broad spectrum UVA and UVB sunprotection, this video explains why it's so important. I love this clip, so very true.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4jgUcxMezM

Rachel

Packaging Really Matters

Just a little blog for you today. Did you know skin care packaging really matters? Certain ingredients need to be packaged in a particular way to be effective and stay stable. Both Vitamins and Anti-Oxidants oxidize within 24hr of being exposed to the air (oxidize meaning, they become totally ineffective). Vitamins such as Vitamin C can do more damage than good once it has oxidized.

So how can we protect them? Simple, the product needs to be in a airless pump. Any products that is in a jar or pottle either doesn't contain Vitamins or Anti-Oxidants or the have oxidized.

Oils also need to be protected, the high the beneficial properties of the oil the more they need to be protected. Keep bottles in their boxes, some oils also need to be kept in the fridge. Light and air effect skin care oils.

Rachel

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year everyone... Have you made any New Years Resolutions? A resolution to have healthy, youthful skin? if so then we have the answers for you. Specializing in Advanced Skin Analysis and Skin Treatments we can find the problem and give you the solution. Using the latest in 3D imaging we are the ONLY clinic in NZ to have this technology. check out more about our technology and the Advanced Skin Analysis Consultation at

http://www.skintherapy.co.nz/index.php/technology/17-technology

Rachel

 

Essential Fatty Acids really are Essential.

Omega’s are so essential to the health of every cell in our body, yet there is a
lack of understanding about what we really need and what really works.

Sources of Omega’s
Omega 3
Fish Oils                  Kiwi Seed Oil         
Soybean Oil            Hemp Seed Oil
Camelina Oil          Flax Seed Oil

Omega 6
Borage Oil              Evening Primrose Oil
Olive Oil                 Safflower Oil
Blackcurrent Oil   Sunflower Oil
Spirulina

Omega 9 – No longer classed as an Essential fatty Acid, high quantities are
found in the following.

Olive Oil                Almond Oil
Canola Oil            Palmberry Pulp

Omega 9 is now seen as not being a necessary Essential Fatty Acid in our
diet, it is thought that we now have an over-abundance of Omega 6 and 9 and
are deficient in Omega 3. This is something I see time and time again with clients skins.

Recommendations for Omega 3 internal intake - Preferably from a fish form
3000mg per day – General Skin maintenance
6000mg per day – Skin Condition
9000mg per day – Menopause

Look for a good quality Omega 3 Oil - the EPA and DHA should equal as close to 1000mg as possible, so cheaper brands will have as little as 250mg.

Topical Application – What to look for?

Look for products containing the following ingredients - 

Omega 3 – Kiwi Seed Oil, contains the highest amount of Omega 3 from a plant source.

Squalene – the original form of this is from shark oil, however new plant
extracts are starting to come through in skin care formulations. The best
source being from Rice Bran.

Phospholipids – Lecithin, extracted from Soybean

Biomimetic Epidermal Lipids – Alpha Lipoic Acid and Beta Carotene are great
examples.

Buy Prologic Omega 3 Treatment Oil at
http://www.skintherapy.co.nz/index.php/store

Rachel

Part 2 - My Recommendations


Different types of protection -

 

Physical sunscreens are rarely associated with allergic reactions. Micronized Zinc oxide or Titanium dioxide are 2 of the best ingredients. They remain on the skin without being absorbed meaning that many products containing these only need to be applied once a day. With the exception of these ingredients being used in a cream form.

 

The best form of Physical sunscreen that I recommend is Jane Iredale mineral make-up. It’s 100% natural and contains both of these ingredients. Easily brushed on in the morning for a full day of protection.

 

Chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the skin, when there is UV exposure the UV is absorbed into the skin and converted to heat by the chemical ingredients, the concern with this is they create free-radicals while doing this (free-radicals speed up cell deterioration – meaning your skin is aging by the second as this process happens). There has also been a lot of evidence to prove that chemical sunscreens are a common irritant, causing skin concerns like contact dermatitis.

 

High SPF? Reapplying…

 

Recently many skin care companies are bringing out very high SPF sunscreens. I recommend staying under a SPF 20 or 30 at the very most. A SPF 15 gives you 95% protection from UVB compared to a SPF 50 which gives you 97% protection from UVB. The extra chemicals added to give 2% more protection are doing more damage to your skin than the 2% UV exposure.

 

No matter what the SPF number, all cream sunscreens need to be reapplied every 2-3 hours. Pure Minerals – like that Jane Iredale spoke about before can be applied in the morning and don’t need to be reapplied through out the day.

 

So I suggest you check your Sunscreen-

Is it UVA and UVB broad spectrum.?

Is it SPF 20 or at least SPF 30 and under?

If it’s a cream sunscreen are you reapplying it every 2-3 hours?

Does it contain Zinc Oxide?

 

Remember a sunscreen should last you one summer season, if you still have a sunscreen from last summer, you are not getting the full protection out of it you need.

 

Rachel

Seeds for Energy

Eating seeds is a great way of getting the "Right" type of energy. They are low GI, meaning you get a slow release constant source of energy. Lets look at a few ways to increase these in your diet.

Chia Seeds - If you have been into Skin Therapy in the last two weeks you would have had Chia Seeds in your Hummus or Smoothie on arrival. These are great sprinkled over salads and cereals too. Also high in Omega 3.

Sesame Seeds - Add at the very end of cooking Asian dishes to keep the nutrients.

Flaxseed or Flaxseed Oil - The oil was used in our Omega 3 Hummus this month, use it for salad dressings or sprinkle the seeds over salads and cereal.


How is caffeine affecting your sleep?


Did you know that 12hrs after drinking a coffee 1/4 of the caffeine is still in your system? Sure you will go to sleep but you will never fall into the "Deep Sleep" stage. We sleep in 90min cycles, starting with light sleep then deep sleep and going back into a light sleep again. The deep sleep stage is so important, it's what makes you wake up feeling refreshed.

Any internal and outside stimulants will prevent this deep sleep stage from happening - Coffee, alcohol, noise and light. 

One Of The Best In The World!!


SKIN THERAPY GETS ANOTHER ACCOLADE.

We are pretty excited to announce that Skin Therapy has been named as one of the Top Jane Iredale Clinics in the WORLD. This is such a huge accolade to be recognised outside of NZ and one we are very proud of.

Make sure you pop in to see us for your colour match of this amazing 100% Natural Mineral Make-Up.

Rachel

Do you know how much sugar you are drinking?

Try and guess how many Teaspoons of sugar are in the following drinks...

Coke, Raro, V, Just Juice, Water, Chi, Tonic Water, Chocolate Milk, Powerade, Flavored Water. What do you think is the highest and lowest??

Water 0 tsp

Flavored Water 7 tsp

Just Juice 7 tsp

V 10 tsp

Raro 10 tsp

Chocolate Milk 14 tsp 

Powerade 14 tsp

Coke 16 tsp

Tonic Water 16 tsp

Any surprises? The Tonic Water was a huge surprise for me! No more Gin and Tonics, switch to Gin and Soda :)

Pigmentation old vs new!

There has been so many developments in the 13 years that I have been doing Beauty Therapy, the change in the way we treat pigmentation is one of these huge changes.

5-7 years ago the though was exfoliate, microdermabrasion and chemical peels. Well anyone who has done any dermal science post graduate will know that that's now one of the worst ways to treat pigmentation. Think about it, you are scrubbing, scratching and peeling your skins natural protection layer away. If that protection layer isn't there, it's like going out into the sun with a first degree burn (it's going to get even more damage).

So how do we treat it? Well there isn't a easy fix - it's a slow process and takes commitment from the client. Ensure that the skin is healthy first (I explain to my clients it's like trying to build a house without foundations), it's the same with skin you need to have the healthy foundations first. Do this with the right topical Vitamins, Antioxidants and Omega 3 (don't forget about the Wonderful Skin Therapy Omega 3 Treatment Oil).

Once the skin is healthy we can start to introduce pigment fading ingredients, look out for things like DMAE, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Licorice Extract, Vit C and Melanostat 5. Clinical treatments with high level Vit A and C will help speed up this process, such as Environ DF Facials, in conjunction with IPL treatments at the appropriate times. Keep an eye out for Prologic's new Pigmentation Range on shelves this year.

My biggest piece of advise though is to have a Advanced Skin Analysis with a very knowledgeable therapist, having the understanding of what cells have been effected and what caused the pigmentation allows a more effective and better result.

Rachel

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